IfThe White Lotus put Sicilian wine on your radar, keep that fascination going by uncorking some of Feudo Montoni’s standout reds. The estate, which has been growing vines since 1469, makes exacting and entrancing wines. The property is guided by Melissa Muller, a New Yorker with Sicilian roots who formed her career running restaurants and writing cookbooks that nod to her heritage. Then she met Feudo Montoni winemaker Fabio and everything clicked. The duo fell in love and she left New York for good.
Now, Fabio and Melissa oversee the historic estate. They tend to fields of chickpeas and olive trees, and play with Sicily’s indigenous varietals, like Catarratto and Grillo—expressive, often salty and sometimes savory whites—and Nerello Mascalese and Nero d’Avola, which make rich but electric and expressive reds. All are well worth seeking out, but start with the Nerello Macalese ($35), born from vines that are only 35 years old, but hail from mother plants that have reigned over the estate for centuries. The resulting wine is incredibly elegant—garnet in color with layers of wormwood, bay leaf, blooming flowers and a stony minerality. Sip it at room temperature or let it chill down in the fridge for a moment to amp up the vibrance.
Then graduate to the Nero d’Avola ($90), another one of Sicily’s star red grapes. The tannins are more structured and giving, balanced out by lively strawberry, blood orange, and black pepper. What I love about these wines is they’re ethereal but grounded, elusive and mysterious but enduringly familiar and endlessly lovable.
Kate Dingwall is a sommelier and wine writer. Her work frequently appears in Wine Enthusiast, Eater, Forbes.com, and Food & Wine, and she pours wine at one of Canada’s top restaurants.
