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When Kīlauea volcano in Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park began to erupt last December, spewing lava 300 feet into the air, I knew I had to see it in person. And there was only one place I wanted to stay.
As the lodge closest to the mammoth Kīlauea Crater, Volcano House is a highly sought-after spot among lava lovers. On any particular day—and especially during eruptions—the back of the property is jam-packed with people watching for a telling orange glow or bubbling magma. During an active period, it’s not unusual for 1,000 people to pass through Volcano House’s doors daily. And given that the area is one of the most volcanically active spots in the world, this happens more often than you might think.
Why I Love the Volcano House
There was a crackling energy when I walked through the doors; I’m still not sure if it was from the excitement surrounding the recent eruption or some sort of shared energy between us and the volcano. (Kīlauea had another minor eruption the day before my arrival in the park.) I was hopeful I’d be there for a follow-up.
Volcano House staff have plenty of stories from previous eruptions. Food and Beverage Manager Tina Balubar remembers when part of Kīlauea crater was filled by a lava lake. (This lasted from 2008-2018 when the lava burst through steam vents further along the island, destroying the Leilani Estates community and causing Volcano House to briefly close.) She showed me a photo of nearby Mauna Loa erupting, Kīlauea glowing a deep orange.
“I grew up near a volcano, so I don’t get scared,” Balubar says. “When an eruption happens, I make all the employees stop, look up, and take it all in. That’s why [many of us] are here.”
Volcano House’s history stretches back further than the establishment of the Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park in 1916—all the way back to 1846. Increased tourism caused the original thatched inn to give way to larger wooden lodges. (The original building was later moved and now serves as the park’s art gallery, where you can find oil paintings, sculptures, and photographic prints of previous eruptions in the park.) Over the years, dignitaries like Mark Twain, Jack London, Princess Victoria Kaulani, Amelia Earhart, and President Franklin Roosevelt have stayed at one Volcano House iteration or another.
In 1921, a new two-story wing was built, upping the capacity to 115 people. Unfortunately, that version of Volcano House was destroyed by a fire (started in the kitchen, not by the volcano) in 1940; the current iteration was erected in 1941 and expanded yet again in 1961. The lodge’s current capacity is 33 rooms.
Given its position on the National Register of Historic Places, updating the lodge presents a host of challenges. Painting the building exterior took more than five years, Balubar says, because a laboratory had to analyze layers of existing paint to determine the original shade used in 1941.
I took a peek inside the old steam room, where volcanic steam was piped in for the enjoyment of male guests in the 1940s. (Back then, women weren’t allowed to sweat, apparently.) When upkeep and repair costs became too high, they filled in those steam vents with concrete, rendering it obsolete.
Room furnishings are a bit dated, but comfortable. The ratan lobby furniture fits perfectly with that aesthetic. But let’s be honest: When you’re visiting Volcano House, you’re really here for the volcano.
Floor-to-ceiling windows face Kīlauea, allowing guests to watch for eruptions in climate-controlled comfort. Across the lobby, a stone fireplace featured a sculpted image of the Hawaiian volcano goddess Pele inset in the rock. Oil paintings of previous eruptions ringed the room, while a flat-screen television played a never-ending loop of past eruption videos.
Adventure Intel
Considering the current administration’s war on our national parks, I felt the need to do something positive to give back to the protected land during my visit. Each Saturday, Stewardship at the Summit, an NPS-approved group of volunteers, meet up to fight invasive species in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. I joined more than a dozen others armed with loppers, all prepared to cut as much Himalayan ginger as we could. For three hours, we slashed and stacked the plant, ultimately clearing about an acre of the fast-growing plant. By the end, I felt like you could see the accomplishment radiating off of me—but you probably could only smell the sweat.
With the work out of the way, I had time left for more traditionally fun activities. I spent the remainder of my first day hiking much of the , which traverses the north end of Kīlauea before connecting with the. The next morning, I was reluctant to move away from the Kīlauea overlook outside Volcano House, not wanting to miss the expected eruption, but there are too many things to do in the park to stay in one place for too long.
Parking at the Kīlauea Iki trailhead, I hiked to the short .2-mile lava tube before descending into the Kīlauea Iki Crater. The trail, my favorite in the park, winds down a series of switchbacks beneath a rainforest canopy to the crater floor.
The change of environments, from lush forest to arid lava rock, is a bit jarring. Walking onto the crater surface for the first time, I felt more like an astronaut than a hiker. As the cinder crunched under my feet, I wondered what would happen if the next eruption happened here. I found myself moving a little faster afterward.
Choice Rooms
While my own room offered comfort and stunning views of the crater, front desk agent Pam Bowers suggests asking for room 11, a.k.a. Uncle George’s Room. The former abode of the longest-tenured owner of Volcano House (and the namesake of its bar), the deluxe room is among the lodge’s most spacious, with gorgeous hardwood floors and one of the best views of the crater. It’s the most requested room by far, so be sure to book well in advance.
Can’t get a room at Volcano House? Check out the lodge’s cabins and campground, located about five minutes from the front entrance gate.
Eat and Drink
Volcano House’s menu is a mix of familiar favorites, like pizza and burgers, and more upscale offerings. The seafood is top notch. I overheard a few other diners raving about the barbecued prawns and New York Strip. But after a busy day on the trails and in the woods, all I wanted was a cheeseburger and a beer. Volcano House’s signature burger with cheddar cheese and avocado aioli, served on a punuluu sweet-bread bun, hit the spot perfectly.
When to Go
You can reserve rooms a year in advance, and Volcano House is typically fully booked about two months ahead. If you wait until a volcano starts burping lava to reserve a room, you’re probably going to be too late. But that doesn’t stop the calls when the volcanic activity starts.
“A while back, we had an eruption that started at 4 A.M.,” Bowers says, “The phone didn’t stop ringing until at least 2 P.M.”
It’s a roll of the dice as to when the next eruption might happen, but for the best chances of getting a room, try booking for the spring or summer.
As my time at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park came to an end, I was reluctant to leave. Not just because Kīlauea hadn’t yet erupted during my visit, but also the hospitality I was shown at Volcano House made me want to stay. But given the volcanic upheaval here, I’m sure I’ll be back at some point.
How to Get There
Volcano House is less than an hour’s drive from Hilo International Airport (ITO) and about 140 minutes from Kona International (KOA). There’s no airport shuttle, but you can reserve a car from any number of rental companies on site.
Book Flights to ITO Book Flights to KOA
Don’t Miss
If you’re crossing the ocean to visit Hawai’i Volcanoes, you should also make a point to visit Hawaii’s other national park, Haleakalā on Maui. Both spots used to be known collectively as Hawaii National Park, but were split into two distinct parks in 1960. The flight between Maui and the Big Island is fairly inexpensive and lasts about 30 minutes.
I enjoyed a day hiking throughout Haleakalā and a night near the summit, observing the stars with Maui Stargazing ( Sunset to Stargazing Tour, from $250). Ironically, Haleakalā’s crater summit isn’t volcanic, but rather another form of geographical upheaval: two valleys merging at the summit of a volcano.
If you want to stick to one island for your visit, check out Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historic Park on the Kona side of the island, about two hours away. You’ll learn about the lives of ancient native Hawaiians, as well as the geologic history of the island.
Details
Price: Room prices start at $285 for a standard room, $335 for a room with a crater view.
Address: 1 Crater Rim Drive,
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, HI 96718
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