There’s something to be said for a watchmaker leaning on its history and heritage in the right way, a delicate balance not to be overdone. Blancpain has mastered that delicate art with a retooled Blancpain Fifty Fathoms that nods to what’s been called the first-ever dive watch to ever hit the horological market.
The watchmaker previously revamped the Fifty Fathoms for its 70th anniversary in 2023, not to mention rebooted versions of the legendary timepiece as far back as its 2008 reintroduction to the Swiss watchmaker’s lineup. But the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique boasts touches that harken back decades, including a 42mm case size in line with the original, plus steel construction of the case itself.
The Fifty Fathoms in its modern iteration boasts a burly 45mm case size, which might prove too large on some wrists, plus a higher price tag than its new 42mm sibling (the new edition clocks in at $18,000). It was also retooled in titanium in 2024, but the smaller case size and the switch-up in case material haven’t resulted in the loss of any functionality: It’s outfitted with an astonishing 120-hour power reserve via its caliber 1315 automatic movement.
The 227-component, 35-jewel automatic movement can be seen through an intricate sapphire caseback, and features an 18-karat red gold oscillating weight. Meanwhile, other touches on the front of the watch pay homage to past versions of the Fifty Fathoms. Note the delicate yet eye-catching red-tipped seconds hand, plus bold numerals and a tasteful 4-o’clock date window. Its satin-brushed steel bezel also gets a ceramic insert for the proper blend of lightweight appeal and rugged toughness.
On its Instagram, the watchmaker called the timepiece “a return to the roots, with a striking touch of modernity.” For the world’s oldest watchmaker, it’s an innovation that manages to stay grounded in both the past and the present, a treat for dive watch enthusiasts, collectors and Blancpain fans globally. The newest version of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms can be found at Blancpain retailers worldwide, but one expects it will appear on the secondary market before too long, as well.
