Chardonnay is grown everywhere. It thrives in Burgundy and commands three-figures in California. The best producers in Champagne play with Chardonnay, as do the vintners of upstate New York. It’s probably no surprise that Chardonnay also grows abundantly in Alto Adige, the mountainous region in the Northern reaches of Italy. The area borders Austria, and the influence is palpable. Schnitzel is a big deal here, mountain goats run wild, and the vineyards climb the slopes of the Alps.
These high-altitude vineyards produce exceptional Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay, alongside grapes native to the region like Schiava (Italy’s answer to Gamay), Lagrein (a serious red grape), and Müller-Thurgau (a mineral, bright wine for Riesling heads). If those sound weird? They’re not. While the grapes are unusual and the region less textbook, the wines offer value and quality in spades. Try the Schiava—it goes great with pizza. And the Pinot Grigio—it’ll make you reconsider the grape’s mom-wine reputation.
But start with Beyond the Clouds. It’s a Chardonnay-driven wine aged in French oak. It’s dense, sophisticated, full, and flirty, with a subtle freshness that balances out bits of white flower, honey and rose. Keep it around for a while—it’s a sleeper hit in your cellar. $90
Kate Dingwall is a WSET-trained sommelier and spirits writer. Her work has appeared in Wine Enthusiast, Eater, Forbes.com, and Food & Wine, and she pours wine at one of Canada’s top restaurants.
