La Maddalena, located on the islands of the Maddalena archipelago in northern Sardinia, is officially recognized as one of I Borghi più belli d’Italia—”the most beautiful villages of Italy”—and for good reason. While many people think of the ritzier Costa Smeralda when picturing a Sardinian sojourn, for a more authentic experience with just as much natural beauty, though less manicured and touristy, La Maddalena is the place to go.
The only way to reach it is by boat, but the rewards for those who do make the journey are myriad. With sunny weather, great food, historic architecture and numerous coves and beaches to explore offering azure waters, soft sand and entrancing rock formations, you can easy while away the day at a beach bar which just happens to serve a perfect negroni, occasionally dipping into the sea, before heading to town to sample unlimited combinations of pasta and fresh seafood.
Options for actually staying on the island, especially when it isn’t high season, are limited however, so many visitors opt to establish a base nearby on the mainland. And the most discerning among them book a private villa at the Cala di Falco resort, in the picturesque town of Cannigione, which also offers access to the beaches of Barca Bruciata and Mannena via the hotel’s water taxi.
A member of the prestigious Delphina Hotels & Resorts group, Cala di Falco provides several distinct styles of beachfront stays including the main Hotel, the Residence, or the insurmountably chic and private Villas, the latter curated for travelers who cherish luxury and exclusivity. The architecture is in the traditional Mediterranean style, set off by sparkling swimming pools, lush flowers and olive trees.
Nearly all rooms and villas have a view of the coastline of the Golfo di Arzachena, which stretches miles over alluring inlets, cliffs, and beaches. A number of recently refurbished apartments, set along the poolside, include one-to-three bedroom spaces with full kitchens. The area is known for its farm markets and numerous purveyors of the food, produce and wine the region in justly famous for.
The soothing architecture, characterized by pastel stucco walls, archways, custom tiles, balconies, and patios, reaches its apex in the Villas, true private residences on the grounds of the resort. Light are airy, the whitewashed rooms with pool and sea views are decorated with carved-wood furniture, embroidered textiles, and wrought-iron beds.
The largest of the villas accommodates eight or more guests, and includes outdoor seating among the gardens, as well as barbecues, the use of electric vehicles and of course access to the main pool, tennis courts, beach volleyball courts, as well as the resort’s scenic 9-hole golf course and the Thalasso spa at the hotel’s sister property in nearby Capo d’Orso.
La Poiana is Cala di Falco’s go-to restaurant, featuring grilled fish, meats, and garden-to-table fare. Overlooking the swimming pool, the dinner buffet captivates with fresh antipasti prepared from cooking stations, homemade pasta, and a carving station. Don’t pass on classic Sardinian cheeses, fruit, and regional deserts either.
For true romance, the resort’s fine-dining rooftop Martin Pescatore, located off the Golfo di Arzabhena, is the place for a candlelit glass of Sardinian wine and island specialties, including smaller plates. Guests favor the prawn risotto with burrata and licorice powder, as well as lobster from the restaurant’s aquarium, and catches of the day.
Like the villas, the communal areas have recently been refurbished. Glass panels open upon cane-woven furnishings; it’s all about letting the outdoors in. The bar area in the lobby is where live music is on offer, the perfect spot for comparing notes with your fellow guests over a cocktail or two. Enjoy, then hideaway in your luxurious sanctuary until the next morning’s excursions to La Maddalena begin.
In its entirety Sardinia is the second largest island in the Mediterranean. Surrounded by beaches and rugged mountain-scapes, visitors can hike its trails, passing by Bronze Age ruins that are akin to giant beehives. The high point of them all is the Su Nuraxi, which dates back to 1,500 B.C. Most Sardinians do not live on the coast; by tradition they are farmers and shepherds, and a little sleuthing will locate some of the incredible organic farms with the “agriturismo” designation which offer inns and restaurants where nearly everything served comes from the property itself.
