Buffalo Trace just dropped the 26th release in its experimental whiskey collection, which most commonly highlights new and interesting advances in bourbon, but also in other whiskeys. The newly launched “Spirits Distilled from Grain and Hops” bottle is not exactly a name that rolls off the tongue, and it certainly won’t feel natural on the tongue to the average whiskey consumer. That’s because this experimental spirit isn’t actually a whiskey at all—it’s more like an aged gin.
Buffalo Trace distilled this recipe to explore how the ingredients “commonly used in beer production” impact a spirit’s flavor profile. Wheatley selected Saaz noble hops (“a Czechoslovakian variety commonly found in Bohemian pilsners”) and Zythos® hops (“an American hop with tropical and subtle herbal notes”). Wheatley then aged this liquid for 11 years and 7 months in charred white oak casks. Official tasting notes from Buffalo Trace call it “uniquely hoppy … reminiscent of citrus and herbal notes found in beer, intertwined with creamy vanilla and seasoned oak undertones.”
Master Distiller Harlen Wheatley started pondering the experiment over a decade ago. Curious about the then-growing bitter beer trend, Wheatley decided to infuse two types of hops into a grain spirit. “Hoppy beers are a playground for brewers,” explained Wheatley in a press statement. “There are many techniques used to capture different flavors. It inspired us to play around with this essential beer ingredient as well.”
Is this what “post-whiskey” whiskey is going to be? Perhaps. Like infinite monkeys on typewriters, the warehouses of Buffalo Trace are certainly working many angles to find masterpieces. The Kentucky distillery has something like 30,000 experimental barrels aging in their various warehouses. They’ve created their version of the Raiders of the Lost Arc warehouse over more than two decades, adjusting the mashbill, wood types, toast and char levels—and every other variable you can think of. Bigger barrels, smaller barrels, special grains, heavy char—it’s all there.
This, however, is here—and for a limited time, you can have it. Spirits Distilled from Grain and Hops is bottled at 90 proof, and while it’s only available in 375-ml bottles, the price is surprisingly welcoming at $47. As for the spirit, Wheatley suggested using it to make a stiff Manhattan. That tells us that the bitterness may cause a little palate shock to the typical bourbon lover. If you’re looking for the next Weller for your shelf, you may not need this in the collection.
For those of us who are always looking for something exciting, though, it’s a good risk. And at worst, one bottle will make for a memorable round of Manhattans at the next bottle party — a round of cocktails you’ll probably only be able to have once.
G. Clay Whittaker is a Maxim contributor covering lifestyle, whiskey, cannabis and travel. His work has also appeared in Bon Appetit, Men’s Journal, Cigar Aficionado, Playboy and Esquire. Subscribe to his newsletter Drinks & Stuff for perspectives on drinks, and stuff.